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balancing the hoof
by David Farmilo
Accredited Master Farrier, Oakbank SA
PH 0418 835 186
www.horsefarrier.com.au
What does it mean to “Balance the Hoof”?
Ask a farrier if he balances a hoof and he will say ‘Yes’.
Ask him to describe to you how he balances it and he will generally
describe very convoluted ways of doing so without having any specific
reference points for others to copy.
- Is “Balancing a Hoof” a matter
of trimming or shoeing so that it looks right?
- Is there a simple prescribed method to
“Balance the Hoof”?
If so, is it written in text books?
- What is the method of teaching young apprentice
farriers to “Balance the Hoof”?
- Do Farrier Schools have a standard method
to “Balance the Hoof”?
Surely we need to make it simpler for young farriers
to learn the simple basics if we hope to encourage them to join
the trade.
I have been shoeing for 52 years and teaching for
6 years, and I have greatly simplified and developed my method
of teaching in that time.
In the eyes of the academics and the purists, my teaching
method may not be their perfect method of shoeing, but it certainly
achieves a very high degree of accuracy in a short amount of time
while under the horse and enables the pupil to quickly understand
what to look for and to solve the majority of problems.
I have also developed a tool to enable the balance
of the hoof to be checked quickly and simply while under the horse.
For those who deride this as being a money making exercise, you
can go get a strip of timber and make your own, or you can buy
mine which is made of stainless steel and comes complete with
an instruction DVD and a free copy of my book, its entirely your
choice.
I set my centre of balance 19mm behind the active
tip of the frog, and the measurement from there to the toe and
to a line across the buttress of the heels should be equal when
the hoof is trimmed in accordance with my prescribed trimming
method.
The medial-lateral measurement should also be equal,
but not necessarily the same as the measurements from frog to
toe and to heel.
SO after all that …
WHAT IF….
- IF there was a simple and easy to understand method
to trim the hoof.
- IF the method could be written down in simple
language that didn’t need a lawyer
to translate it.
- IF the method could be verbalised in simple language.
- IF it could be understood and appreciated by farrier
and horse owner alike.
- IF the method could be applied easily while under
the horse.
- IF this simple method eliminated most of the hoof
problems seen today
This is the method that I teach. I make a policy of
not using technical terms.
BALANCING THE HOOF
DAVID FARMILO’S METHOD
(in conjunction with David Farmilo’s HOOF-LINE)
1. Observe the hooves and always start with the larger
hoof (the dominant hoof) to avoid over-trimming the smaller hoof.
2. Clean out manure and dirt from under side of hoof
with hoof pick.
3. Starting at the tip, clean out the edge of the
frog down to the bars which identifies the natural frog/sole junction.
4. From there, working out to the hoof wall/live sole
junction, remove only dead flaky sole to leave the sole as concave
as possible. Remove excess sole ONLY down to the bottom of fissure
cracks, no further.
5. Lightly trim the frog with knife or nipper to an
even ‘V’ shape. Then trim the tip of the frog to expose
the join at the active sole thus ‘exposing the active tip’.
6. Trim the bars of excess height and clean out seat
of corn area.
7. Place HOOF-LINE flat
on the centre of hoof WITH TIP OF TRIANGLE ON TIP OF ACTIVE FROG.
The graduations will show the length to toe compared to length
at heel (at a straight line across the heel buttresses). In the
finished prepared hoof these two halves must be equal distances
from base of triangle.
IF front half (toe) is longer than back half
(heel) –
1. Leave the heels untouched and using rasp or cutters, trim the
FRONT HALF ONLY to a level surface to suit either barefoot (+4mm)
or shoe fitting preparation. DO NOT OVER RASP.
2. When front half is level - correct thickening in hoof capsule
at toe section only. Uneven thickness is caused by flaring of
the hoof in toe area. Bring hoof forward on knee or hoof-stand
and carefully rasp any flare away to copy the ideal or normal
shape of the coronary band at the front of the hoof only, rasping
no higher than the nail clinch area. Check to ensure an even thickness
of hoof wall capsule around toe area is maintained. DO NOT rasp
either side of hoof wall.
3. Using HOOF-LINE, measure length
at finished toe. When the hoof wall capsule is prepared correctly,
the measurement in the front half will then be correct, so use
marker pen to mark same measurement to heel (to a straight line
across the heel buttress). IF it is already correct – leave
it alone. IF it is shorter, lower heels to marked level.
4. Taking hoof forward again, rasp side walls and heel flares
to copy ideal or normal shape of the coronary band. DO NOT OVER
RASP.
5. If leaving unshod, bevel leading edges of hoof wall slightly.
If shod, shoes must finish at the heel buttress to maintain correct
hoof balance.
IF toe is already at the correct length
and there are no flares in the toe, the heel buttresses will usually
measure too short – so by lowering the heels, a balanced
measurement will be achieved.
When this balanced measurement is achieved in the
bottom of the hoof,
- the front of the hoof wall is parallel
with the pastern angle,
- the hoof shape is a mirror image of the
ideal/normal coronary band,
- there are no flares in the hoof wall
- and the hoof is stress free.
Following this method gives the user the ability to
consistently duplicate a time efficient method of achieving a
correctly balanced hoof. In some extreme cases it may take 2 or
3 shoeings to achieve a balanced measurement, but that same horse
may have been out of balance and in pain for years.
The HOOF-LINE used in conjunction
with my trimming method helps eliminate lameness by correcting
long toe / low heel problems or high heel / short toe problems;
it eliminates flares which are a major cause of instability in
the hoof; it helps correct contracted heels which are the result
of minimal frog contact and also eliminates the need for remedial
shoes which often exacerbate the problems. It even saves further
time by allowing the farrier to take the measurements to the anvil
and shape the shoe according to the measurements of the finished
hoof.
The major advantage is that this method takes the
guesswork out of hoof preparation. HOOF-LINE is arguably the first
accurate tool in the world for achieving hoof balance while under
the horse without the need for x-rays or complex application of
technical measuring aids.
The process is of course dependent on the user preparing
and measuring the hoof correctly, and no responsibility or liability
is taken or implied.
To further simplify and explain
the procedure for
teaching and for quick student reference, I have
also put the method into the slide
presentation below.
How to Balance the Hoof
Printable version of presentation above - PDF
I welcome
all queries and comments, and am available at all times to anyone
who cares to
contact me via email at david@horsefarrier.com.au
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1. Before

2. UNTRIMMED HOOF

3. IDENTIFY ACTIVE TIP AND CRITICAL HEEL JUNCTION THEN CONCAVE
SOLE

4. CORRECT THE TOE ONLY DOWN TO LIVE SOLE JUNCTION

5. COMPARE NEW TOE MEASUREMENT TO HEEL MEASUREMENT AND ADJUST
HEEL IF NECESSARY

6. CORRECT FLARES

7. CHECK FOR PERFECT T SQUARE

8. FINISH SHOES AT HEEL BUTTRESSES

9. CHECK MEDIAL LATERAL BALANCE

10. AFTER CORRECTLY BALANCING THE HOOF
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